Day Eight – Palolem 

Bright light was shining through our window this morning and we woke up quickly to get out an explore. We rented a scooter from next door and we rode North to Agonda Beach, a deserted beach. I’m sure is lovely in the high season but the cloud started to set in and the beach sea looked murky so we carried on up the coast for about another 45 minutes to the fort Cabo de Rama. 
The drive was outstanding through rice paddies, hilltops, farmlands and palm trees. And even I got back in the driving seat, as they say, you’ve got to get back on the horse. 

When we arrived, we fort a fairly derelict fort which was extremely badly kept but once you walked into it, we could see some of the most stunning views we have seen this trip. The coastlines of north and south Goa protruded covered in jungle and Palm trees. We walked along the fort line and took in the views before clambering down the sea edge. It was perfectly easy to feel as though you were back in the 1600s with the British invading into the shores in their redcoats and muskets. And we sat there for a while taking it all in. 

We then drove back down to Palolem and enjoyed lunch in a rooftop lounge before taking the drive down South to Galgibag Beach. When we arrived the sun was out and we were only two of four people on the beach. It was gorgeous and finally we had found that view of the picturesque Goan beach which we had been searching for. We lay down to read and sunbathe and within five minutes the omnipresent monsoon rains began. For the first time since being here, we felt cold. 

So we hopped back onto the scooter and sped home to shower, dry and warm ourselves. We had a couple of beers and played some cards with Jacob, a German guy we had met and ended up heading out for dinner with him and Ron, the manager of the hostel. 
We indulged ourselves and drank beer while playing pool into the night before heading back to sleep. 

Day Seven – Palolem 

We had such grand plans to rent a scooter and go exploring today but unfortunately we were woken by the sound of torrential rains. 

We didn’t do much today. We wandered the beach of Palolem and were hassled by store owners. We then came back and looked in a few secondhand book stores but the prices were high, higher than to buy new. We wandered back and relaxed listening to the sound of monsoon rains beating down on the iron roof. 


It was nice to relax and read our books and have an early night. 

Day Six – Palolem

Neither Sam nor I slept well the night before. I was in a lot of pain in my ribs and there was a huge Indian man in our room who snores louder than anyone I had ever heard before. For that reason, we slept in for a while this morning and it was difficult to get up up. We wolfed down breakfast quickly before it finished and decided to stay in Palolem for a little while longer. We tried to book another night in our dorm but it was fully booked so we booked into a double room which turned out to be a blessing as it was only 100rupees more and nice to have our own space away from the snoring giant. 

We didn’t do too much this day and the lack of sleep got us feeling a bit under the weather. We had lunch on the beach and came back to our new air conditioned room of luxury and had a long nap. We decided that the next day we would head out and explore. 
The hostel manager had planned to give out free beer to everyone because the hostel was full (a rare thing during low season) so I left Sam resting in bed to go meet some more people. We drank a few beers on the balcony and headed out together around 20 of us all from Europe. 
We headed to a nice restaurant which sold cheese, not uncommon in India but usually it is dried up cottage cheese or paneer. This was good French, Swiss, Greek and British cheese and we all relished in it, particularly the French girl with us. 
I headed back and climbed into bed feeling exhausted. 

Day Five – Candolim to Palolem 

The blackout blinds in the room had destroyed all sense of time for us and we were pleased that breakfast ran until midday when we found that we didn’t wake until 10.30am. We treated ourselves to pancakes and waffles and Sam had a quick dip in the pool. Anyone that knows me would know that the pool is my second home and where I feel most comfortable but unfortunately, due to my wounds, there would be no swimming for me.  

We had heard that the South was a lot more relaxed and not much to do so we decided that if I needed more time to recover, it would be best to do so down there and then to work our way back up to where the action is once I felt better. 
We flagged a taxi but were told that a taxi to Palolem would cost us 3500Rupees which was too much so the taxi driver directed us to the bus stop and we decided to take the bus down south. 3 buses over 3 hours cost us 100Rupees and was a pleasant way to travel.
We arrived in Palolem and immediately the vibe was extremely different. It was a lot quieter and there were less Indian tourists but a lot more western travellers could be found. We didn’t really know where to go so we walked in the direction that seemed best; to the beach! 
We stopped in a busy cafe and had a beer and some food just to get our bearings. The view of the beach was incredible but the weather let it down. Grey clouds started to set in and the rain began. There was a group of girls in the cafe who looked like travellers so I asked them where they were staying and they named a cheap hostel which was fairly busy and this seemed like a good place to go. So we grabbed our big bags and walked the 10 minute walk, through the rain to the hostel. 
We arrived at hostel Summer (a partner hostel of hostel Prison, we had almost stayed in in Anjuna). It had a good vibe and there were a bunch of people there. 450Rupees a night, hot showers, free breakfast; we couldn’t complain! 
In the dorm room was a chatty Glaswegian girl and two German guys and it was nice to have some company of fellow travellers, something we had been lacking. We settled in, got our laundry done and chilled. 
We were invited to dinner with the group in our room but we weren’t hungry so we just drank beer! While sitting in the small restaurant we could hear the fireworks and music of a passing parade celebrating the Ganesha Chaturthi.  During Ganesha Chaturthi Hindi people pray to the elephant-headed God, Ganesha (the god of new beginnings), to ask that all future endeavours shall be completed without obstacle.This is something I can definitely relate and maybe now my future path will go without obstacle?? 

The procession passed with a clay model of Ganesha in the back of a van and a temporary shrine to honour him. It was an odd sight seeing a small procession of people blowing up firecrackers and dancing to trance music in honour of a god. The procession made its way to the beach where the clay model was immersed in the sea and Ganesha would lay there slowly disintigrating for the next few days. 

We decided to head down to the beach to chill on the beach with a few beers but on the walk down it started to rain. Monsoon season in India isn’t the best time to come, but hey, that’s why it’s cheap! We headed to the bar we were in earlier and played some pool and drank some more beers. We also met some other guys from Australia and Wales and it was nice to have a chilled vibe totally different from the North of Goa. We grabbed a few more beers and headed back to the hostel to sit on the balcony. And we definitely felt content with life.