Day Ten – Panjim

The medication I have been on for my war wounds have been giving me strange nightmares. That, coupled with searing pain and the oncoming of what felt to be the cursed Delhi belly, gave me an unpleasant nights sleep and it took a while to wake both Sam and I from our slumber.

We headed to the coffee shop for breakfast which was difficult for us both to get down due to the oncoming illness. We inquired about day trips to the Dudhsagar Falls but unfortunately due to the poor weather, trips were not operating. So we decided to spend the day doing a walking tour of Panjim taking in the Fountainhas and the Portuguese heritage. 

We walked down to the Goan state library, and as true geographers, we scanned the old maps and weather charts of India. If you’re looking for a modern, air conditioned building in Goa, the library is your place. In contrast the Goan state Museum next door was housed by an old derelict building and it felt instead like entering someone’s old home filled with random junk that they had collected over the years. What struck me about the artefacts was that they looked as if they came from hundreds of years prior but instead were dated within the last 60 years. 

We walked through “downtown” Panjim to find the cinema and thought we would treat ourselves to a relax with some popcorn. Bollywood may have been an option but the only [English] movie showing was The Shallows, a modernised Jaws-like movie starring Blake Lively. In all honesty, I probably could have gone on living my life having never seen it or cared to have seen it but for a good two hours, it entertained. 

We hailed a rickshaw, surprisingly our first one since coming to India, and headed back to the hostel just in time for the rains to pour down once again. So we chilled in the coffee lounge with our books. And I finally got to use some good internet to update this page! 


The night set in an I soon forgot I was in India and could have been anywhere in the world. A German guy started to talk to us to try and improve his English and although it was difficult to understand him he was doing well considering he had only been learning since he arrived in India. Two other guys, a German (Jonathon) and a Dutch (Mike) came to join us with some Old Monk, a fairly pungent rum which is made in India. We got chatting to them and decided to meet them out at the only bar in the city, Cafe Mojos. 

We went for dinner at a great place recommended by our hostel and despite the Delhi belly style symptoms we had vaguely been having, we wolfed down a delicious meal. 

We headed to Cafe Mojos, an interesting bar designed to look like and Irish bar but with all the waitstaff dresses in lederhosen. On top of that, the music was so loud, you would have thought you were at your local townie disco on a Friday night. But we went upstairs, ordered some beers (ginger ale for me to settle my stomach) and settled in. Not before long two guys (Sameer and Rashid) asked us if we wanted to play table football and we did beating them 3 times in a row. 

Mike and Jonathon arrived with Jay (South Korean), Melissa (German), Millie and Brad (Engish) while we’re beating Sameer and Rashid and soon we were being beaten by Mike and Jonathon. We had a good night listening to music and drinking. We even tried Cashew Fenny, a local drink made from fermented cashews. When you drink it, it tastes similar and gives you a similar experience to rice wine. We did not like it. 

We left and wandered home playing frisbee in the quiet and eerie streets of Panjim. The contrast between the day and the night was interesting to see and the streets which only a few hours earlier had been filled with bustling people were now empty except for the bats and the Strays.

We settled into bed a little giddy and happy from a good day in Panjim. 

Day Nine – Palolem to Panjim

We headed down to breakfast (late again) to find that everything had been eaten. So I asked Ron if we could get some more food. The breakfast lady brought me a basket of eggs which she had been hiding especially for me, something she had done everyday we had been there. And when we managed to procure some bread she started telling me that I bring good fortune, bringing food to her and her family. And from then on, I was called “daughter” by her. 
The sun was hot today. Hotter than I have felt in a long time. So we took advantage of it and headed to the beach to sunbathe. 15 minutes of it and I was done. Without the ability to go into the sea to cool myself, it was unbearably hot but Sam enjoyed it for a while while I read my book in the shade. 
Sam had been having trouble with her neck and it had been causing her sleepless nights so while I went to grab some lunch she has a neck and head massage. 
We had spoken to Ron, the hostel manager, the day before about getting up to Panjim and he said that he would be driving up himself so he offered us a lift. Christof, a German guy we met, also took advantage of the free ride. So the four of us bundled into the tiny Tata. 

It was a nice ride through southern Goa with good company and good conversation and far more comfortable than the three buses we would have taken otherwise. We dropped Christof off in Margao and continued on to Panjim. 


Arriving in Panjim, our hostel was a quirky coffee shop with a nice reading corner. We were instead staying in a small building down the road in our own private room. It was nice and interesting as it was an original Portuguese building. But it was dingy and a little mouldy. I suppose that’s what you get with originality. We showered to get the sand off and headed out to grab a quick coffee before heading to dinner. 

Unfortunately arriving on a Sunday wasn’t ideal as most of the restaurants we had earmarked were closed. But we found a lovely bar restaurant with a rooftop terrace where we enjoyed a few beers and some food looking out over the river and the busy Panjim streets below. 

We headed back to the hostel where I quickly got to bed while Sam returned to the coffee shop to read her book. Exhaustion has been a common theme of this trip. 

Day Eight – Palolem 

Bright light was shining through our window this morning and we woke up quickly to get out an explore. We rented a scooter from next door and we rode North to Agonda Beach, a deserted beach. I’m sure is lovely in the high season but the cloud started to set in and the beach sea looked murky so we carried on up the coast for about another 45 minutes to the fort Cabo de Rama. 
The drive was outstanding through rice paddies, hilltops, farmlands and palm trees. And even I got back in the driving seat, as they say, you’ve got to get back on the horse. 

When we arrived, we fort a fairly derelict fort which was extremely badly kept but once you walked into it, we could see some of the most stunning views we have seen this trip. The coastlines of north and south Goa protruded covered in jungle and Palm trees. We walked along the fort line and took in the views before clambering down the sea edge. It was perfectly easy to feel as though you were back in the 1600s with the British invading into the shores in their redcoats and muskets. And we sat there for a while taking it all in. 

We then drove back down to Palolem and enjoyed lunch in a rooftop lounge before taking the drive down South to Galgibag Beach. When we arrived the sun was out and we were only two of four people on the beach. It was gorgeous and finally we had found that view of the picturesque Goan beach which we had been searching for. We lay down to read and sunbathe and within five minutes the omnipresent monsoon rains began. For the first time since being here, we felt cold. 

So we hopped back onto the scooter and sped home to shower, dry and warm ourselves. We had a couple of beers and played some cards with Jacob, a German guy we had met and ended up heading out for dinner with him and Ron, the manager of the hostel. 
We indulged ourselves and drank beer while playing pool into the night before heading back to sleep. 

Day Seven – Palolem 

We had such grand plans to rent a scooter and go exploring today but unfortunately we were woken by the sound of torrential rains. 

We didn’t do much today. We wandered the beach of Palolem and were hassled by store owners. We then came back and looked in a few secondhand book stores but the prices were high, higher than to buy new. We wandered back and relaxed listening to the sound of monsoon rains beating down on the iron roof. 


It was nice to relax and read our books and have an early night.